The theme for this segment was challenge and perseverance. Martigny to Orsières started the climb toward the Grand Saint-Bernard pass. I made it across the suspension bridge! But it turned out that was the easiest part of this difficult segment. The elevation gain was 950 meters, with some difficult footing, climbing over boulders, and a few very steep downhills. It also happened to be the first hot day, with high humidity. We walked slowly and hydrated as much as we could.
By the time we reached Sembrancher, the town before Orsières, it was around 4pm, and our feet were done. Once we saw the train station and realized that we could be in Orsières within less than 10 minutes, compared to walking a couple more hours, we quickly made the decision to take the train the rest of the way.
Orsières is where we started to meet people that we would see frequently over the next few days - two women from France and three self-identified Kiwis from New Zealand, then a Californian, and a couple from Hong Kong. Some of us hiked together at various points, especially on the day of the final ascent to the Grand Saint Bernard Pass, and we continued to see each other off-and-on until we all reached Aosta, Italy.
This night was spent in our simplest accommodation, some mats on the floor at a gîte (a cottage for pilgrims at the local church) in Orsières. Sleep sacks or personal sheets are essential when staying in pilgrim accommodations. Additional blankets are provided, but typically are not needed at this time of year. There was a shared shower, a hot plate available for simple cooking, and a rack for drying clothes. It may not sound like much, but it’s really all that’s needed when on pilgrimage.
The next day, we continued climbing. The footing was easier this day, and we made it into Bourg St-Pierre by early afternoon. This town with a population of 200 is the last outpost before the pass, and has minimal services, but what it offers is magnificent. We used the extra time to enjoy the “spa” at the Hotel Napoleon. This included use of a wet sauna, a dry sauna, a jacuzzi, and a relaxation room. It was luxurious and well worth the fee.
For dinner, we went to a small café at the Auberge les Charmettes. This mom-and-pop place has about 6 tables and appears very basic, but the food was amazing. A hearty portion of steak was served on a hot stone slab, with morrill sauce and
frîtes (fries) on the side. The sauce sizzled when ladled over the steak.
We also ordered a beef fondue. This consisted of about 1.5 to 2 pounds of beef pieces that were then dipped into a beef stock fondue to cook briefly, and then dipped into one of 5 sauces: curry, spicy, garlic, mustard, and tartar. The flavors were rich and complex.
This night, we stayed at the Maison Saint-Pierre, pilgrim accommodations at the local paroisse (parish) house. Here we met Angus and Catherine, a couple from Hong Kong, who are walking their way to Rome.
On the day of the final ascent, companionship seemed essential due to the greater remoteness and more severe weather of the region. Since we were unable to call up to the Hospice to find out if conditions were safe for travel, we went up to the Hotel Napoleon, where some other pilgrims were staying, to get the latest news. Rain and thunderstorms were forecasted throughout the day, but the Hospice had said that it seemed safe to make the climb. Per the advice of a local, we started on a small road that heads out of town, to avoid the slippery footpath. We walked with Angus and Catherine, and then later walked with another pilgrim for part of the day. Near the reservoir above the dam, we caught up to the path where the footing was easier. We faced periodic rainstorms, rushing alpine streams flowed near the path, the last few kilometers needed to be hiked on the road due to large, deep snow pockets, and the temperature dropped the higher we climbed but we completed the 1000-meter climb (over about 8 miles) by mid-afternoon.
When we reached the hospice, we were greeted warmly and invited to remove our packs. Then we were offered hot tea to drink while sitting at a table to check in. We relished the opportunity to get off our feet after having climbed over 1000 meters that day. The hospice has been a place of refuge for pilgrims since the Middle Ages, and prides itself on providing respite to travelers across the Alpine pass. The road to the hospice had only opened a week earlier. For most of the year, the Col can only be reached via snowshoes or skis, and travelers must heed avalanche warnings and current weather forecasts. On the day we arrived, snow was still present, but seemed to be rapidly thinning and the small lake by the hospice was beginning to thaw.
The hospice is sited very close to the Swiss-Italian border. Crossing to another country was so tempting that we put our boots back on, albeit without packs this time, and journeyed downhill to Italy. The biting cold and freezing rain didn’t support lingering, however, so we quickly turned around and retreated to the shelter of the hospice.
We were served a simple dinner here, but delicious and filling. The Swiss prefer multi-course meals, so we started with a soup (naturally, accompanied by bread), followed by white fish and baked vegetables. Seating was at long tables with other guests, and provided an opportunity to connect with others we had met over the past few days.
Thus ended our journey across Switzerland.
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