Saint-Tryphon to Saint-Maurice

 

Today’s walk was short - about 7 miles - but tedious as it was entirely on pavement and half of it was either through cities or alongside major roads. The pounding on the pavement is hard and our feet were very sore when we arrived in Saint-Maurice. Some of the views were amazing, though - with Grand Combin in the Swiss Alps imposing on our left and Mont Blanc in France on our right. Our destination - the Grand Saint Bernard Pass just to the west of Mont Velan in Italy (the triangle-shaped mountain in the center of the photo above) - is nearly visible now.

We arrived in Saint-Maurice by mid-afternoon. Tonight we are staying in pilgrim accommodations for the first time, at the Abbey of Saint-Maurice. Such accommodations are marked with the ubiquitous yellow pilgrim.

A section of the abbey is reserved for travelers, with simple rooms overlooking the main thoroughfare of town. The furnishings may be simple and the bathrooms shared, but they’re just right for the weary traveler.

Since we had not planned ahead adequately, we needed to eat out for dinner. While there are numerous restaurants in Saint-Maurice, the options are limited on a Sunday evening. We chose the Thai restaurant just across the street from the abbey, and were very pleased that we did. Inside Mâe Khong we found a woman answering the phone, cooking the meals, and taking orders all on her own and she did this seamlessly. In less than 20 minutes, our Thai curry dishes were ready. The flavors were deep, complex, and spicy. The chunks of meat and shrimp were sizeable and the portions large. In short, the food was absolutely amazing.

After dinner, we walked through the town. Saint-Maurice was formerly known as Agaunom but was renamed in 1003 in honor of Maurice, the leader of a Roman legion who refused to participate in pagan rituals. The story is that this Theban legion (from southern Egypt), led by Maurice, had repeatedly refused to conduct pagan sacrifices and was ordered to be “decimated,” meaning that every 10th member was killed. This was repeated twice. The remaining legionnaires continued to refuse to perform the sacrifices and thus the entire legion was put to death. This all took place at Agaunom.

The abbey was founded in 515 AD and houses more than 40 canons (Augustinian priests who live together in one community). Like many other structures, the buildings are not original and have been rebuilt multiple times. The tower dates from the 11th century, while the church was first built in the 17th century. The adjacent building that houses the rooms for pilgrims dates from the 18th century.

Being in a place with such a lengthy and tragic history provides perspective on our short lives, as well as on the impact that individuals and groups can have on communities. This journey that Kat, TJ, and I are undertaking also provides new perspective, giving us opportunities to learn more about one another and connect with each other in different ways, and to appreciate the time we have together.